Black, |
|
| Usual Difficulty | IV-V(V+) (may vary with level) |
|---|---|
| Avg. Gradient | 110 fpm |
| Max Gradient | 126 fpm |
| Name | Range | Difficulty | Updated | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BLACK RIVER NEAR BESSEMER, MI | ||||
| usgs-04031000 | 200 - 500 cfs | IV-V(V+) | 04h02m | cfs |
Quick Facts:
Location: Western Upper Peninsula, about 10 miles North of Bessemer.
Shuttle Length: 2.2 miles. (See details in "Directions" Tab.)
Character: AMAZING geology creates some classic drops.
Drainage: 200 sq.mi. (at gauge site upstream).
Google Maps has excellent resolution aerials of this reach. We highly recommend going to the
"Map" tab, clicking 'Satellite', double clicking near (not on, but near) the Powotomi Falls
location icon (resolution at put-in is not good, so don't click up there), zooming to the maximum
resolution (without losing image), and doing a 'virtual tour' to 'walk' down the reach.
Amazing geology creates some of the most interesting and unique drops in the midwest. Due to the
constricted nature of many of the drops, the range of runnable levels is somewhat narrow. Also,
scouting is highly recommended at virtually all of the drops, as once you start into a drop,
there is often no way out. A snag in the lower part of any drop could be exceedingly problematic.
Some of the drops do not lend themselves to setting any 'meaningful' safety, nor to convenient
rescue setups. Best to be cautious.
While the reach is listed as starting at Conglomerate Falls (mostly for continuity and
completeness from prior segments), many boaters will choose to put in about a mile downstream,
below Gorge Falls. Even with the shortened run at just about two miles, allow plenty of time for
this awesome run. You will be scouting most drops, and you'll probably want time for photos and
video.
(The 'short' run stats are: length=1.95mi, ave.gradient=95fpm,
max.full-mile-gradient=108fpm.)
While extreme boaters have run every drop on this reach, less experienced (or let's be kind and
just say less 'adventurous') boaters may find themselves portaging the big stuff. (My standard
line was "you carry your boat almost as much as it carries you.") Even with up to three
portages, there is more-than-enough remaining whitewater to enjoy, and the scenery is
outstanding.
Drops in the upper part of this reach (which many will choose to bypass) include:
0.0 miles Conglomerate Falls (25-30'): A large dome of rock divides the flow into three channels.
The main (center) channel has a sweet, simple slide into a generally not keepy hole. There are,
however, some known piton possibilities, particularly on the right side of the slide/hole.
0.5 miles Potawatomi Falls (40'): Again, a large dome of conglomerate rock spreads the flow
across a wide span of river. With runnable levels for the rest of the river, flow across this
rock is exceedingly sparse. Attempts at running this drop are often amusing and scary, as boaters
have trouble maintaining their lines as they slide down the rock sideways and backwards.
0.7 miles Birth Canal (4'): Just around the bend from Potawatomi, the river is squeezed into a
narrow slot and over a short, but decidedly ugly pourover. Water boils up throughout the length
of the pool (about 40'?) before Gorge Falls. It is hard to imagine a boater escaping the boiling
backflow in this drop at most water levels. While I have heard of a run of this (though I have no
idea at what flow), most boaters at most levels would do well to be certain to stay well clear of
this drop.
0.7 miles Gorge Falls (20-30'): Flowing out of the other end of the boiling pool, the river is
squeezed to about 10-15' in width as it pours over a sloping lip and into the depths of a grotto
in the canyon below. Many will choose to just view it from overlooks above and again from below
as they carry down steep stairs and slide boats over a locked wooden gate to drop to the rocky
shore and the eddy in the canyon below.
From here (the more common put in) one will encounter the following drops (I think I
have them in the correct order . . . but a couple could be 'juggled' . . . I haven't run this
reach enough to recall for certain):
RollerCoaster: The river takes a sharp right, pours across a short irregular ledge, about a
hundred yards down a 'hallway' through a couple offset diagonal waves, before dropping through
another hole which will give most boaters a good shot-in-the-chest/face and completely stall
their momentum. While it may flip you, at levels up to 350cfs it has not seemed overly retentive.
A large pool and eddy lies below.
1.6 miles Sandstone (25' of drop spread between a main falls and a series of ledges below): A
dike of rock with a slot in the center, looking almost like a breached dam. There is a potential
line down the center, but there is some upturned jagged rock to either side (at the least, boat
abuse, at worse, piton potential). This line feeds you into a meaty looking hole which wants to
shove you out left, toward the undercut left wall. Another line is to 'sneak' off to the right
into a hanging eddy/pool, then slide around the 'breach wall' to ride down a narrow tongue,
avoiding the worst of the hole. Many will portage (left) around the large entrance falls to put
in immediately below and enjoy the series of diagonal waves and holes which follow.
Surprise: The river splits around a large island. The right channel stays 'high' as it slides
past the rock/island, through a couple diagonal waves, then pours over a 3-4' ledge (surprise!).
The best line is usually staying left down the 'hallway', then crossing to drop off the final
ledge tight to a rock on the right. (Not to be mistaken with going tight right early, ending up
right of that rock, in a narrow channel, which is not generally recommended.)
No Surprise/Over-the-Falls: The left channel around the island mentioned above has a couple good,
potentially playable waves, and doesn't loose as much altitude as the right channel. As it wraps
around the backside of the island, it drops over a taller falls as it rejoins the right channel.
Far left appears a fairly smooth slide, while some other lines may provide a boof into the flow
below. Avoid getting too far right, as the landing will be on a spline of rock. (This is the
route less taken, as most folks enjoy running Surprise, and at least looking at
Under-the-Falls.)
Under-the-Falls: One of the tougher drops to run, to scout, to set safety, or to portage. The
right bank is high and well wooded, and rocks at river level are sloped and slippery. A couple
ledges form powerful offset holes, leading to odd currents where the flow from the left channel
dumps in (see above). Rocks from the left shore (the island) are overhanging (undercut). Caution
is urged for those deciding to run this. A common 'bypass' route is to do a 'double portage,'
beaching on the island, carrying across, getting in the boat to ferry across the left channel
(above it's falls), then beaching again to carry across a hump of rock to a convenient spot to
re-enter the river below the drop.
Bump & Thump: A fun stretch of offset ledges, waves, and holes leads toward and past a large
conglomerate outcropping on river left. None should cause particular trouble. More often (at
levels up to 350cfs) the challenge is to keep from 'grunging out' in this stretch. A 'stealth
rock' does exist in the center of the final drop, so stay left or get well to the right to avoid
piton or gouging your boat.
Jills Delight: The river divides around a rock/island. Taking the right channel, a high ridge of
rock rises on the left (the island) leading to a slide down sloping bedrock into a (usually)
fairly tame hole. The usual line is left of center for a smooth slide, though I have seen some
folks take the right side for a more abrupt drop. (Not sure about depth and 'cleanliness' . . .
boof highly recommended.)
Jill's Bypass: The left channel (at the above mentioned island) has a steep pourover into a short
boil, followed immediately by a narrow constriction, then slams a wall and is diverted to the
right. A short ledge/wave precedes the confluence with the other channel.
2.1 miles Rainbow(45'): One of the most beautiful and ugly, bizarre and intimidating falls in the
Upper Peninsula. Take a dome of rock, then imagine taking a drill press to cut a vertical shaft
out of one side of the dome. Water pours in, pounds and swirls around furiously before spewing
out over a short drop into the pool below. The left side (where water sheets over shallow
conglomerate) drops toward a wall, then is diverted to the right over the dome, clear of the
vertical shaft, and plunges into the pool below. Again, this has been run, but most will enjoy
the esthetics as they portage, usually on the left, where there is a viewing deck, and access to
the river below is easier. However, to really appreciate the full beauty (and 'ugliness') of this
falls, take out well above the falls on the right. Hike down a path to viewing areas above and
downstream of the falls, then get back in your boat to ferry across to the left shore for the
easier portage. (Access to the river on river-right below the falls is possible, but can be
difficult.)
A brief, generally flatwater paddle leads to the harbor in the park at the mouth of the river.
AW members may click
here for Part 1 of an article from the AW Journal, way back in 1981!
AW members may click
here for Part 2 of the article.
In addition to this reach, the article also describes the following:
Michigan's
Upper Presque
Isle,
Lower Presque
Isle,
Middle Black,
Upper Silver,
Lower Silver,
Falls, and
Rock,
and Wisconsin's
Lower
Brunsweiler,
Montreal,
W.Fk., and
Montreal
Canyon.