Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
|Usual Difficulty||I-II(III) (varies with level)|
|Avg. Gradient||10 fpm|
|Max Gradient||10 fpm|
|Milwaukee River Winter Gauge|
|virtual-50980||0.60 - 4.30 ft||I-II(III)||01h22m||~ 2 ft (running)|
|POSSIBLY 600-1000 cfs. MAYBE enough flow for full run or play at any/all locations (where ice does not interfere). Winter gauge manipulates USGS stage reading to show *possible* flows. Gauge and runnability/playability may be affected by ice. Check CAREFULLY for safe egress|
|MILWAUKEE RIVER AT MILWAUKEE, WI|
|usgs-04087000||120 - 2400 cfs||I-II(III)||01h20m||586 cfs (running)|
|Intermediate flow. May be ideal flows for beginner-to-intermediate boaters for full run or PnP at EPL, UPk, TD or North Ave. (See 'Flow Info' tab for details.) Gauge (696 square miles) is essentially at listed put-in, so very accurately portrays actual flow.|
Location: Glendale/Milwaukee, starting about 4.5 miles north of downtown Milwaukee, ending 2 miles northeast of downtown.
Shuttle Length: 3.6 miles. (See details in "Directions" Tab.)
Character: The (relatively) deep, tree-surrounded river corridor creates a green oasis in the city. Rocky shoals, bedrock ledges, an old timber dam, and paver-block remediation create random areas of riffles, rips, and minor rapids.
Put-in is approximately 610' elevation.
Take-out is approximately 580' elevation.
Thus total elevation change is approximately 30'.
*** IMPORTANT NEWS *** It appears that the long-running dispute regarding the Estabrook Park Dam finally has been resolved. Quoting from a Milwaukee Journal Sentinel article dated 2017.01.20: "Last month, MMSD Executive Director Kevin Shafer signed an option to purchase 45.7 acres at Estabrook Park at a cost of $1. Abele agreed to a deal that requires the district to return most of the property to the county for park use at the time of the sale closing. At closing, the district would hold on to a narrow 3.9-acre parcel along the river on the north end of the dam, and an island at midstream, for equipment access during demolition. Removal of the dam is estimated to cost $1.7 million and work is expected to begin in late 2017. The smaller parcel would be returned to the county for park use when demolition is completed in early 2018, under the land transfer deal." (Emphasis added by your AW StreamTeam Editor)
What this means to (whitewater) boaters: Frankly, almost nothing. There have only been a few random times (over the course of many years) that there has been anything of real interest at the dam and debris catchers (the so-called "shark's teeth"), and generally there have not been many occasions where running the serpentine right-side of the dam have been possible (due to massive accumulations of wood which have routinely precluded paddling anywhere near the lip). Thus, removal of the dam removes virtually no paddling or play opportunity at that site. It is a virtual certainty that removal of the dam will similarly not result in any (whitewater boating) opportunities at that site. (I.E., there is no plan to replace it with any 'rock-arch rapids' to maintain any pool height and expressly provide whitewater opportunities, as has been done in numerous cases, notably in Iowa.) Moreover, even when fully operative the dam had precious little effect on flow (it was only very randomly ever 'regulated' or adjusted in times of high flows, when they'd open gates to reduce the rise of pond height, I.E., to reduce the negative impact that the dam itself was causing!), so its removal will merely eliminate the pond above, thus eliminating regulation of pond height -- the river above and below will always be at natural flow levels (exactly as it has been for the past 8-10 years while the dam has been inoperative). Thus, the only impact will be for any novice recreational paddlers who opt for a longer trip (starting further upstream, like Lincoln Park), who will no longer have to portage around the dam.
I believe this stretch of river gets a (largely unfair) bad reputation regarding water quality
due to media harping on the MMSD every time there are CSOs (Combined Sewer Overflows). In spite
of the 'deep tunnel project', millions of gallons of untreated mixed rainwater and sewage
may be dumped into area rivers at times of heavy rains. At one site alone, there are pumps
capable of contributing 250 cfs (~6.73 million gallons per hour!) into this
river upstream of our listed put-ins. I feel it is even more important to note that even absent a
CSO, street and lawn runoff (especially after a significant period without rain) contain
extremely high levels of contaminants which can be at least as bad as untreated
sewage. For this reason, it is generally advisable to avoid this reach during
and immediately after any heavy rains. In general, the bulk of contamination will pass
one-or-two days (24-48 hours) after the CSO/rain-event. (At times of heavy rains, info about
whether and where rivers are affected by CSOs will be posted on the MMSD Overflow Advisory website.)
At all other times, this river actually is far cleaner and clearer than many Wisconsin streams!
During lighter rains, I would posit that this river is actually cleaner because of
the combined sewers than it would be without them! Absent a CSO, any lawn and street
runoff (with all its pet wastes, fertilizers, chemicals and contaminants) which does
enter the sanitation system is kept out of the rivers and treated before entering the
Various people may be aware this stretch of river has been identified as a 'hotspot' for PCBs (Polychlorinated biphenyls). A major 'contributor' to the PCB load was located on Lincoln Creek. A major remediation of the river at that confluence took place spring/summer 2015, and subsequently from there down to the Estabrook Dam. Recent (Spring, 2017) articles in the news mention sampling which has been done down this stretch (Estabrook Dam to North Avenue Dam) to quantify the extent of the problem here, and to map the most significant areas of concern. The media incorrectly hyped this as a "new problem found" (it is a long-known problem!). Rather, the true take-away from those studies was that the problem here is orders of magnitude LESS than in those upper stretches! (And, awareness that there will be a forthcoming remediation down this stretch of river. Until then, all dirt/mud bottom areas on this run should be considered contaminated. The best information I can find suggests that PCBs primarily bond with soil and are NOT generally water soluble. This would suggest that as long as you stay in your boat, and avoid stirring up any muddy areas, your risk of any PCB contact should be minimal. Similarly, areas of bedrock would not harbor significant contamination.
While this run may be done as a 'dam-to-dam' run (the full reach listed), often
whitewater play-boaters will eliminate the need for a full shuttle and just do a
'park-and-play' at the two or three main sites which can offer tame play
even down to fairly low summer flows.
See "Flow Info" and "Rapids" tabs for much greater detail on this run.
|"Timber Dam" (A.K.A. "Waterworks"), was built in the early 1900's by Schlitz Brewery for the purpose of harvesting ice from the river in winter. At lower flows (under 600 cfs), the river is constricted to about 1/4 it's width, flowing only through a gap toward the right side of the timber dam. Playboaters will find a small surfable wave here (at certain levels, flatspins are possible), but the bigger 'attraction' is the well-defined eddies, strong eddylines, and great depth. Work on bow stalls and stern squirts, pirouettes and cartwheels, or just practice peel-outs, ferries, and eddy turns. (I love doing 'figure eights', peeling out of one eddy, crossing the current, catching the other eddy, paddling up it a bit, then repeating the process coming back to complete the '8'. It's great practice for working on boat-leans and carving turns.)|
One-thousand feet (~0.2 mile) downstream The Plague (at Locust) (directly under Locust Street bridge), a short rocky pitch (actually, almost as much cement rubble as rocks) can provide additional entertainment, mostly at low summer water levels. (This actually gets MORE interesting as water drops. Over 1000 cfs, it's nothing but splishy-splash chop. Down to about 500 or so, theres' a bit more happening, but still not much. It comes to its best below 500 cfs, and even down to 130 cfs!)
Canoeists and flatwater recreational kayakers are advised that this location actually can be somewhat more difficult and dangerous at low water! Exercise caution here at levels under 200-300 cfs. A flip or swim may be brutal due to the shallow cement rubble in the drop and the run-out. If you have an 'out of boat experience', quickly assume the 'whitewater swimmers position' (face up, feet downstream, floating as near the surface as possible) to encounter shallow rocks with you feet first, your butt second, and your back (protected by the PFD which you should be wearing!). Do not try to stand up or grab your gear until you are in the calmer water in the pool below the drop. There will be plenty of opportunity (and at less risk to yourself) to regather your gear in the slower moving water. Consider portaging (by 'beaching' your boat on rocks at river-right, carrying or dragging across to the lower pool to put in), or take the bypass channel at far river-left (left of the bridge pier). It may be a bit shallow and scrapey at lower flows, but it should be less dangerous!
The site of the former North Avenue Dam is the second area of best entertainment possibilities, since this is where the most concentrated gradient and (arguably) best play features exist (at least, at good flows, as detailed in the "Flow info" tab). Unfortunately, some of the formerly best features here have been greatly diminished by highwater in spring and summer of 2008. This area will get scrapey at low summer flows, especially about midway down this stretch, where shallow rocky rubble fills the entire riverbed. Under 150-200 cfs, unless you are really good at picking your line, you can expect to hit a few rocks, if not actually grind to a complete halt!
Whitewater boater may elect to hit any of the play sites (but not do the full run) by either paddling a short shuttle section or driving between the various Park-and-Play spots, since they all occur where they can be accessed from convenient parking.
Since the river is one of the larger watersheds in the area (at 696 square miles), it will generally retain adequate flow (for novice/intermediate play at Timber Dam/Locust and/or North Avenue) after other rivers in the area are too low to boat. However, as noted in the 'Flow Info' tab, at levels between 500 and 1000 cfs (give or take), there is much to be said for enjoying more of a down-river experience, adding the variety of a few other playable spots available on the 'full run'. While there will be regular reminders that you are in the city (radio towers, three large bridges you'll pass under, occasional houses, highrises, and factories visible from the river), the river sits in a decently deep, tree-lined valley, making it a pleasant escape from (and almost possible to forget) the bustle of the city surrounding the river.
Another bonus: Both the Timber Dam / Locust Street location and North Avenue location allow boating after sunset, by street lights on the bridges as well as the general glow of the city. Disclaimer: both locations are in what may be somewhat questionable neighborhoods (though with UW-Milwaukee dorms now flanking the river at North Avenue, and condos lining N.Riverboat Road, this area is much improved). I have boated both locations a good number of times after sunset with no problems or concerns arising (though I won't guarantee that to always be the case).
The North Avenue location will sometimes allow winter paddling, as it can often remain (or flush) free of ice. Extreme caution is urged for those who choose to boat this in winter months. Rip-rap rocks on shore will often be icy, and the river just downstream of this stretch will be frozen over. Mis-steps and miscalculations (or swims) will be punished (perhaps with your life if you flush under the ice). Make certain you check the ability to get out (especially if there are ice-shelves from shore) before putting in! It is strongly recommended (for any winter paddling, when ice is present on shore) to get out at the pool either above or immediately below the rubble rips, as exit from the river downstream (nearer the pedestrian bridge spanning the flanks of the former dam) is generally much more difficult and potentially treacherous!
If you're an avid off-road cyclist, bring your mountain bike along. There are challenging (unofficial) single-track trails each side of the river from North Avenue to Capitol Drive, complete with a few 'stunts' (if that's your thing). My subjective evaluation (with a disclaimer that I'm, at best, a novice off-road biker):
river-right (west bank) (north or south): novice,
river-left (east bank) north (upriver): high-intermediate,
river-left (east bank) south (downriver): expert.
Milwaukee Riverkeeper provides a fine map (via GoogleEarth) which covers this reach of river.
Post-flood (June, 2008) addendum
Flooding which occurred spring and early summer 2008 was particularly unkind to whitewater enthusiasts for this section of river. The 'lesser' features in the earlier sections of the river are largely unchanged. However the areas around Locust Street and North Avenue, formerly best for whitewater play, have been greatly diminished.
The left-most part of the wave at 'Shadow' (the sweet 'sit-and-spin' wave-with-pile under the upstream edge of the North Avenue bridge) sometimes loses its pile and barely allows more than front-surf or back-surf opportunities. That river-left part of the wave still does serve to give access to the center-river wave, which does have a decent trough and small pile, and will still allow surfs and spins (for better boaters), though it also is less retentive than in the past (again, at levels from 400-800 cfs). At levels from 800-1200 cfs, the wave is a pretty good surf, and seems perhaps a bit grabbier (as in, tripping up your edges) than it had been before. Transition from the river-left eddy to the river-left pocket, as well as from that pocket to the center wave both are now (at some flows) a bit more challenging.
Downstream through the North Avenue area, quarried rock rubble (which had been piled on river-right in a few spots, and which created eddies and pushed some of the flow to center-stream) has been randomly redistributed downstream. As a result, 'Typewriter' barely exists at many levels (can offer surfs/spins from 500-800 cfs). At levels from 800-1200, the 'set up waves' (between 'Typewriter' and 'Showboat') can offer very interesting surfs. 'Showboat' is a small trough-wave which comes-and-goes, which (at it's best) can be minimally surfed (and only rarely can be spun on), thus will hardly be found to be worthwhile entertainment by many whitewater boaters. There is now at least one good-sized rock (in the pool/outflow area from where 'Showboat' used to be) which is large enough and shallow enough (at most playable flows) to be at risk of serious impact in the event of a flip here. Additionally, from midway down the North Avenue stretch, until the flanks of the old dam now supporting the footbridge, the entire streambed is large, angular, rocky rubble.
As a result, the whole North Avenue area is much less a destination for playboaters than it had been in the past, though it still provides a decent workout when things are at optimums.
|Mile||Rapid Name||Class||Features (Legend)|
|-0.2||Estabrook Dam - Left Side ("EDL")||I|
|-0.2||Estabrook Dam - Right Side ("EDR")||III|
|0.0||** Recommended Put-in **||N/A|
|0.1||Estabrook Park Ledge ("EPL")||II+|
|0.8||U-Park riffles and ledge ("UPL")||II|
|1.1||Capitol Drive shoals||I|
|2.3||Timber Dam ("TD")||I|
|2.5||The Plague at Locust ("PAL")||II|
|3.3||Enter / Carriage Return (Wave)||II|
|3.3||Shift Keys (Waves)||II|
At times, whitewater paddlers may find it worthwhile to carry upstream (from the dam parking lot) about 180 yards to put in just above or just below what folks call the "Shark's Teeth" or "Dragon Teeth". Tripodal/pyramid structures span from river-left shore to the island to catch large woody debris (to keep it from accumulating on the dam and plugging-up the gates). County crews (with a large crane) periodically remove accumulated wood from these. However, at times when wood is present, sometimes there will be one or two gaps through which water pours into the pool (downstream of the debris catchers, upstream of the dam). At flows above 1000cfs, I have seen an easy sweet playable wave form at a wider center gap. When that is present, well-defined eddy-lines allow for great bowstalls and squirts.
Also quite often one or two of the narrower gaps (usually closest to shore) will be clear when the rest of the 'teeth' are blocked fully by wood. Again, as flows reach into the 1000+ cfs territory, these will create fine little pourovers. While the space is a bit tight for any significant surf to happen, it can be possible to poke your bow into the oncoming flow for a big auto-ender. (I'm guessing loops would be possible (if you are not too intimidated by the proximity of the structures)
Before deciding to put in above the debris catchers, make sure to carefully scout the gaps to be certain of your line, to determine that there are no snags or strainers for you to hang up on, and to be aware of how much current may be sweeping you into this area. Similarly, carefully check which (how many) of the eight lift-gates on the dam are free of debris to allow safe passage.
The river-left side of the dam has eight lift-gates which used to be fully-open from late fall through spring, allowing the river to flow freely through. In summer they used to be closed, to have all the water flow over the serpentine fixed-structure dam on the right side of the island here. The past few years there have been problems/controversy regarding the operation of the dam, and the gates have been left wide open year-round.
At times of increased flow, passing through the open gates, and/or being in the swirls and boils immediately behind the dam can be a bit sketchy (or potentially a bit fun, depending upon your perspective, skill, preparedness, et cetera).
Make certain to carefully scout all eight gates before putting in above! Some wood escapes the "Shark's Teeth" and does end up caught across the gates of the dam, often blocking-off some number of these gates. Look at the dam/gates from downstream (as well as from upstream) to be certain to be aware of any wood which may block passage through any of them.
The river-right side of the dam is a very interesting serpentine stone structure. Unfortunately, this area tends to accumulate tons of wood, often making it impossible to get anywhere near the dam on this side. This is probably a good thing, because the landing zone for most of the serpentine dam is quite shallow. While it has been run (in proper whitewater kayaks), it is best avoided unless you have scouted it ahead at low water (to know where to be and not to be), and have also scouted it at present water level and time, to know if it is possible to get to your intended route or if it is blocked, and to know how the depth and possible hydraulic may be. However, for years now, all the I-beams and stop-boards (which formed the near-island/left-side of this part of the dam) have been removed, leaving a much shorter height to the dam. At times of high flows (above 1500 cfs or so) water will pass over this part of the dam. For anyone considering running that at such times, it would be essential to put in above the "Shark's Teeth" and then land on the the island to scout the situation below that part of the dam to be aware whether that is runnable or whether a terminal hydraulic may be present, and to be aware of any problems with wood in the drop or downstream on your chosen line.
The best, most general advice for the vast majority of paddlers is to stay well away from the lip and base of this dam.
Put-in is possible from a 'fishermans access' parking lot on river-left at (just downstream of) the Estabrook Park Dam. From the parkway road, there is a single-lane road heading downslope, under a bike-path bridge, to this parking lot. It should be noted that this parking area (and the narrow road down to it) is NOT PLOWED in winter, and often remains gated off until April or May (often weeks after all snow is gone). When this lot is gated, use the next listed put-in.
A very shallow rocky shoals runs from shore toward an island. At flows under 600 cfs there is better passage (better depth of channel) if you ferry across above the shoals to a route near the island before heading downstream. At lower flows, it will be advantageous to put-in from the upstream end of the parking lot (towards the dam) to have decent depth to make the ferry across toward the island and not be grunged-out on the shoals immediately.
In recent years, I have tended away from using this put-in location, preferring the next listed put-in. Since this is a rather secluded spot, there have been vehicles broken into.
Since there are times when the dam parking lot is gated (or otherwise unavailable), we strongly recommend parking in the northernmost lot adjacent to the parkway road. You'll see a ball diamond and Beer Garden at the southern end of this lot, where there is an overlook (and stairs down to river level) to view the Estabrook Park Ledge. Boat access to the river from those stairs would be very awkward due to vertical stone walled shore. So, while you may wish to park in the south end of the lot to walk down and scout the drop, it will be far more convenient to access the river if you park at the NorthWest end of the lot. Carry your boat(s) back on a paved path toward the tree line, bear right onto the paved bike path, crossing a small bridge over a ravine, then look to the left for a set of uneven stone steps to head down to the riverbank. There should be a fine clearing on shore with low banks to put-in, and you'll have a short paddle (with plenty of time to get to river-right shore to scout the ledge if you did not previously do so from the south end of the parking lot).
View Milwaukee River: "Dam to Dam" in a larger map
The river here is quite wide and drops across a ledge. (It's just a couple feet of drop, but that's a pretty good drop for S.E.Wisconsin!) Paddlers in canoes, recreational kayaks or sea kayaks are likely to go ashore (river-right) to portage around this drop. Various options are available for the more skilled or adventurous to run the drop. Depending upon water level, almost anywhere across the breadth of this drop will work (though many lines will be grungy at common flows). As flows rise above 1000 cfs or so, the reversal at the base of the drop becomes more problematic. At such flows, use the left half of the drop to avoid the hydraulic which forms across the right half. At levels somewhere above 3000-4000 cfs, the whole ledge is 'swallowed up' by high water in the 'pool' below, and a river-wide assortment of green (brown) waves and holes (really more wave-like, but with smooth breaking pile) start to appear. At some of these elevated levels, shoreline eddies actually allow paddling upstream far enough to regain the waves for repeat play. Be well advised that when the river is on the rise into these levels, likelihood of CSO (Combined Sewer Overflow) is high, and (even absent a CSO) water quality is likely to be nasty with all the urban runoff contaminant. While the copious overall volume means the contaminants will be diluted, you will have to decide your comfort level for exposure to the possible risks. A day or two after the rain event, the worst of such contaminants are likely to have passed (but, then, the flows will also have dropped quickly to less than the 3000+ cfs territory).
At flows from ~200-1200, I generally prefer a route about 1/3 off the river-right bank. A short upper ledge forms a funky upper wave/hole. A line which 'lips' the right edge of that wave/hole, angling hard toward center stream, will take the paddler off a point on the ledge which juts furthest downstream, allowing a clean 'boof' into the mush-pile below. Well-experienced or more gutsy paddlers may want to do a button-hook move, lipping the river-right end of the hole, ferrying across its boil, to surf a little horseshoe pocket to its left (surfers-right), and (if more daring) venture into the main part of this pocket for surfs and pushed-spins in its narrow crease (best at levels ~200-800 cfs). I call this whole upper-right pocket/ledge "Big Dog", in reference to the relatively new fenced in, off-leash, dog-walk area in Estabrook Park, which is separated into an area for bigger dogs and an area for smaller dogs.
The other 'preferred line' is down sloping chute at far river-left. This is likely to be the 'line of choice' for more timid paddlers (as well as offering some interesting options for more experienced paddlers). At lower summer flows, canoes and recreation kayaks are likely to 'grunge out' a bit in the chute or encounter shallow rock in the pool below the chute (likely to significantly dent or puncture inexpensive recreational kayaks, thereby making the aforementioned portage their better choice). Boaters who do not aim for this river-left line on their first run may carry-up the river-right shore, put-in above the ledge, and make a ferry across the width of the river to align for this route (a surprisingly easy ferry at flows from 200 to perhaps 1000-1200 cfs). There are a couple of little riffles at the head of this river-left chute which (while often barely perceptible) can actually be surfed and spun on! Midway down the chute, just a touch to the right of the main flow, a small wave/curler/crease forms at flows ~400-1000. Skilled boaters can catch this for surfs and spins as a fun little 'guts surf' here. I call this feature "Little Dog" (as the counterpoint analogy to the "Big Dog" upper pocket ledge previously described).
Coming off "Little Dog" (or just running down the main flow from above the chute), either stay centered in the main flow down the tongue, or angle to either side for a short boof off the bottom ledge. There is a narrow playable crease (hole) between the flatter tongue/chute and shore. This has been best at flows from 400-1100 cfs or so, and can provide the best play in the Estabrook Ledge area. However, you will quickly be aware that almost everywhere across the base of the main ledge) is very shallow and rocky. If you capsize and have to roll or swim, you will almost certainly be bashed upon rocks! Unless you are a very skilled boater, confident of being able to surf without capsizing and having to roll, you are not likely to want to attempt play here. (I call this line and this area the "Beer Garden Chute", in honor of the Hofbrauhaus beer garden at top of the stone stairs here.)
By the way, fishermen frequent both shores this area, as fish congregate in the pools below. Strong sport fish (salmon, trout) can make the leap to get above the dam in spring and fall, but (to my knowledge, anyway) most other varieties are stymied by the ledge, making this rather like shooting fish in a barrel. My experience has been that summer fishermen (for panfish and bass) tend to be fairly amused by and tolerant of our presence, whereas (with unfortunate regularity) the spring and fall sport fishermen (for trout and salmon) more often tend to be less tolerant, less willing to share the river. We've been told (by fishermen) that WE are breaking the law by "interfering" with their fishing, threatened with calling the cops or DNR-wardens, been intentionally cast-at with fishing hooks, and had rocks thrown at us. (I'm not saying every sport fisherman is so belligerent, just that some are.) It should go without saying to try your best to be observant of their lines and avoid interference as much as reasonably possible. Often if you calmly and politely talk with them and 'negotiate' a bit, they'll (willingly, or begrudgingly) share the river. If/when you encounter someone fishing, who seems less willing to share, it may be best to just move on rather than pushing the issue into further conflict and potentially making matters worse, not only for yourself, but for ALL PADDLERS.
Other than the couple limited spots as described above, most of the width across the base of the ledge has such a uniform crease and boil-line that any attempts to play will likely suck you in sideways, be difficult to escape, and not really offer any meaningful play, but rather leave you struggling to keep from being 'window-shaded' (leading me to call it 'park-and-flail' boating). So, other than the previously mentioned locations, most boaters, at most flows, are best advised not to attempt play across other areas of this bottom ledge.
The following video (courtesy KBraband, via YouTube) shows the put-in and runs of this ledge.
At 0.75 miles from your put-in, as the river-right bank clears (becoming an open grassy slope) and as you see the lightposts in the U-Park (parking lot) high up the bank, a boulderbed shoals (class I riffles and rips) leads around a sweeping right-hand bend. At the end of this roughly 1/4 mile stretch, as soon as trees again populate the river-right bank, a minor double-ledge (bedrock intrusion) exists on the right half of the river. At flows in the 400-1000 range, some very nice beginner/intermediate play is possible here. Front surfs, side surfs, and flatspins may be practiced to your heart's content. Better playboaters may also manage some backsurfs and blasting. A sweet attainment move is possible also, coming off the lower (main) wave to 'surfers right' (toward center-river), ferrying across a bit of current, paddling up a break (slackwater) to another minor diagonal ledge/wave, surfing it to the upstream/left (toward river-right), and paddling up slackwater to regain an upper wave.
At higher flows (above 1000, to 2000-3000 cfs) this location develops some very nice waves (often with sweet soft foam-pile). Surfing will be marvelous, but mostly 'catch-on-the-fly'. It may be possible to regain the bottom wave/hole by paddling tight to river-right banks, but a fallen tree confounds that path a bit.
Since Timber Dam and Locust are generally pretty lame when flows are adequate to have best play at EPL/UPL/N.Ave., some boaters may wish to maximize play and cut out the nearly 2.5 miles of mostly uninteresting paddle between here and North Avenue by just doing a short shuttle to run Estabrook Park Ledge and the U-Park Ledge. This might be done on its own, or then driving down to have whatever fun one can at North Avenue.
As you pass under Capitol Drive, a shallow rocky shoals (at least, at low-to-moderate flows) will be encountered. Best depth is a line generally from center to river-left. At higher flows (above 500 cfs), these shoals are fairly well covered (no special 'line' or maneuvering is needed), and no particular features occur.
An old timber dam (used by the breweries to harvest ice from the river in the days before modern refrigeration) blocks nearly three-fourths of the river (at flows under 800 cfs). A small smooth wave sometimes forms in the 'gap', generally being better the lower the flow goes (all the way down to minimal summer flows!). Very well-defined eddy-lines are present in the deep pool below the flanks of the timber dam. This spot can offer great opportunities for bow stalls and stern squirts, as well as 'old-school' pirouettes. Beginners may practice river-running skills such as peel-outs, eddy turns and ferrying.
At levels above 800 cfs, water flows over the entire width of the dam/river, and there is generally no whitewater interest here as a result.
Note: this site may be done as a 'park-and-play'. Driving on Humboldt Boulevard until just a bit north of Locust Street, turn East on E.Chambers Street. Proceed to park on the street at the end of the public parking on this dead end. Carry down the pavement (outside of the pumping station), over or around a chain strung between posts, and straight down the grassy open area to the river.
Update Spring, 2013: Time is unkind to us here. High water (and ice-out) continue to knock down more of the old timbers from the dam. As a result, the dynamics and play potential of this spot are reduced, since water is not funneled as narrowly as before, and the eddy lines are not as well-defined.
Directly under the Locust Street bridge, the main channel (right of the bridge pier) contains rocky rubble (including cement and rebar) which creates a short rocky pitch.
At levels somewhere above 500 cfs most of the debris is covered, and there is little more than splishy-splash rips (and perhaps a couple unsurfable waves) -- barely even a rated rapids!
At lower summer levels this area actually becomes more interesting (I.E., potentially more treacherous to beginners or non-whitewater paddlers, potentially more playable for whitewater paddlers). At these lower flows, piles of rubble create more constricted flow. Canoeists may be best advised to kneel into the bottom of the canoe (get your weight off the seats, lower the center-of-gravity, and increase your stability; do NOT raise your arms and paddle high overhead! Keep paddling!) or consider portaging (though any wet rocks on or near shore will be quite slick! Watch your footing!).
Boaters who flip or swim are warned that there is a great deal of shallow coarse cement rubble in the main outflow in the pool below the main pitch. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO STAND while in the swift current!!! Assume the 'swimmer's position', floating as near the surface as possible, face up, feet downstream. You WILL encounter rocks and cement with your shoes, your butt, and your (PFD protected) back. Wait until you are downstream in the calmer water in the pool before you even think about trying to find bottom, stand up, and collect your boat and gear. Attempting to stand (or swim face forward, face down) in swift moving water is VERY likely to result in bruised and scraped up shins!
There is a much smaller channel to the left of the bridge pier which has far less rubble and debris in the flow. At the low flows (120-250 cfs) at which the main channel is most treacherous for beginners and non-whitewater paddlers, this less obvious channel is unlikely to be a viable alternative to the main channel. (Though at lowest summer flows, shallow sandbars in the pool below may 'ground out' your boat.) At flows in the 120-500 cfs range, there may form a playable wave/hole here, which I would call Garbage Falls. This is not nearly so much a name for the feature as it is a warning about what happens here. All manner of debris is (rarely, but . . .) randomly dumped into the river from the bridge overhead -- garbage bags, shopping carts, bicycles, defunct electronics (TVs, radios), et cetera. So . . . remember . . . "Garbage Falls" (from overhead). Pedestrians on the bridge overhead may consider you a fun target for tossing trash, knowing they can be long gone before you could catch them.
As you approach the North Avenue Bridge, you encounter the start of 300+ yards of swift water and waves, leading to the remnants of the North Avenue dam, now spanned by a pedestrian bridge.
A 'fault' in the paver-block bottom creates a sweet surfable/spinnable wave, which lies in the shadow of the North Avenue bridge (hence the name of the wave). Whitewater kayakers ('play boaters') will find entertainment here at levels from about 300 to 1000 cfs. Somewhere above that level, while the wave/hole may still exist, it will be difficult to regain as the eddy will more-and-more disappear.
NOTE: High water levels spring and summer of 2008 have apparently caused changes to this feature. While it used to 'always' have a sweet pocket and 'pile', it now often is only a green (brown) wave. Particularly, the river-left-most pocket-wave, at 500-600 cfs, was merely a front-surfable wave, mostly worthwhile to surf across for repeat play on the center-river wave-with-pile, which still allowed flatspins, front-, and back-surfs.
A sweet wave/hole forms at flows between 400 and 1000 cfs. Experienced whitewater playboaters will be able to get surfs and flatspins. A decent shoreline slackwater/eddy on river-right allows repeat play.
NOTE: High water levels spring and summer of 2008 have caused changes to this feature. Originally, this was a 'diagonal wave' which looked like it would 'typewriter' you off to river-left. However, that diagonal nature no longer exists, and now (when it is 'in') it tends to be just a short wave, or small breaking wave (hole) pretty much in center-river.
At some flows (mostly in the 800-1600 range) a sweet wave forms very near the river-left shore, just a wee bit behind Typewriter Wave (TW). It has no eddy, so the only way to catch it is coming off the 'surfers-right' shoulder of TW, in control, to charge/slide across onto Backspace. While I've never been able to pull any moves in it, it is a sweet surf, and sets you up for the next feature.
Just downstream behind Backspace lies another wave. This one is usually a bit deeper and better-formed, often having a fine breaking pile. At good flows (1000-1600 cfs), it offers front-surfs, side-surfs, and spins.
Shifting more toward center-river below Enter (Carriage Return), a few wider troughs often form (at least, at levels 1000-1600 cfs). These tend to surge, cresting and falling, which can make them difficult to catch and ride. If your timing is right, they make a great challenge to see how long you can ride a changing wave.
A slip in the paver-block 'bedrock' center-river causes a series of surfable waves. Rocks have shifted (in flooding June of 2008), and now at least one boater has had a 'close encounter of the worst kind' with a rock in the main flow just downstream of the wave here. (Fortunately, he 'tagged' it with his back and shoulder, not his helmet/head.) There are many shallow rocks to the sides (in the eddies), as well as further downstream closer to the next very rocky pitch.
On the river-left shore there are a number of areas of 'gabions' (think chain link fence baskets filled with rocks) and other wire-mesh which have failed. These are only in the shoreline eddy areas, thus should not cause problems of snagging boaters unless you are out of your boat, swimming toward the left shore. (HINT: Swim to the right shore!)
NOTE: High water levels spring and summer of 2008 caused changes to this feature. At 550-800 cfs, it is a barely noticeable trough, and appears and disappears (surges). It may be possible to catch a surf for a bit, but it will not amuse for very long. The lead-in waves (when they are present) are often a better surf than the (former) main wave here. Perhaps best at flows of 1000-1600 cfs.
Canoeists and novice swiftwater paddlers are likely to find this stretch of splishy-splash water rather exciting. Whitewater boaters may find a bit of minor play (especially as levels go under 600 cfs), catching a mid-river eddy (behind a few early rocks) and dropping to one side or the other to play a wave or two which forms here at lower water levels (actually better/best under 300 cfs!).
At levels over 400 cfs or so, all rocks should be adequately covered to allow passage most anywhere. As levels drop, however, boats are likely to grunge-out on shallow rock. Anyone upside-down (in a kayak) or out of their boat will likely be bruised and battered on the large rock rubble which lies under water, lining the entire riverbed in this stretch. If you are in the river (out of your boat) here, you will need to be very careful getting ashore. Footing will be very trecherous on the quarried rock in the river and on shore. In the river, float on you back if you can (if it is deep enough), or crawl (on hands and feet/knees) so you don't slip and fall and bash a knee, shins, or your wrists/hands/elbows! Be very aware of the dangers of foot entrapment in the large quarried rock!
There are a few different options for your take-out.
1) Take out halfway between North Avenue and the footbridge (spanning the flanks of the old dam) before you float down a shallow rubble shoals and the last half of this stretch, which is flanked by quarry-rock shores. Footing to exit the river is easy if you take out from this pool. (NOTE: the sediment containment paver-blocks which line the riverbanks are likely to be slippery (in the water, or if wet on shore), but at least they provide a smooth, stable walking surface.) Playboaters interested in carrying up for additional surfs of 'Shadow' may find it easiest (and most advantageous) to use this exit-option, since there is generally no additional 'play' down the remaining half of this stretch except at lowest flows, and going any further down just doubles your walk back up!
2) If you proceed down the final rocky pitch, the right shore will be lined pretty solid with trees and shrubs. A bit more than midway down, there's a clearing, then one final good-sized willow (prior to passing under the footbridge). This location will require that you exit your boat from a somewhat precarious eddy, carefully step out onto quarry rock (which is likely to be VERY SLIPPERY in/near the water! BE VERY CAREFUL!). You'll have a couple of steps to carry your boat across very irregular quarry-rock, but will then have good footing on gabions (wire baskets filled with rock) and then firm land. Again, from here you can either carry up for another run/play of this stretch, or carry to your vehicle.
3) Float beyond the pedestrian footbridge which now spans the shoulders of the former dam. NOTE, however, that when the river runs high (above 1000 cfs) there will be DYNAMIC swirls and boils (even small whirlpools which form randomly!) as the fast water meets the flat water below the dam. Above 2000-3000 cfs, this area gets downright wicked looking! At all flows above 2000 cfs, I strongly recommend walking to the center of the pedestrian bridge before running this stretch, to make sure you are prepared for what awaits you here!
So, a number of options exist below the pedestrian-bridge/former-dam:
3A) As you head toward/under the pedestrian bridge, stay far RIVER-RIGHT, then IMMEDIATELY head to the right bank, take out VERY NEAR the dam, then hike up a very steep, rocky embankment. Unfortunately, rocks have shifted/slid in recent years, and this is much less convenient a climb.
3B) As you head toward/under the pedestrian bridge, stay somewhat right-of-center, then (leisurely, in slackwater/eddy, head to the right bank well downstream of the dam. DO NOT USE 'UNIMPROVED' areas of shore! Look for one of two-or-three locations where there are Lannon-Stone steps at shore. (It will be best if you do NOT use the first spot you come to, but instead wait until about the second or third, where you can see steps leading up the high embankment to return to your car on the street above. (Get out too early and all it does is give you a longer carry on a path by the river to get to these steps!)
3C) The final option is perhaps best all around (at least for all flows under 2000 cfs or so). As you pass under the footbridge and flanks of the old dam stay in the current heading toward left shore (which is vertical steel plate). (Keep to river-left or you'll actually be paddling against the eddy current below the dam!) A short ways downstream head to river-right to an obvious improved landing with huge quarry-rock steps (shown in the photo) or . . . just a bit past that, they have built a more convenient gravel landing for kayaks. A graveled trail leads upslope to Riverboat Road right alongside a former single-family home (now offices for a river-related non-profit).