Flathead, Middle Fork
2. Bear Creek to Paola Access
| Difficulty | II-III |
| Length | 12 mi |
| Avg Gradient | 18 fpm |
| Gauge | M F Flathead River Near West Glacier Mt |
| Flow Rate as of 56 minutes | 12100 cfsabove recommended |
| Reach Info Last Updated | August 23, 2025 |
River Description
This scenic reach of the Middle Fork forms the southern boundary of Glacier National Park and is protected as part of the Flathead Wild and Scenic River system. The trip begins at the Bear Creek access area on river right, easily reached from Highway 2 at the point where the river emerges from the Great Bear Wilderness.
The action starts immediately with Bear Creek Rapids, a bouldery Class II–III feature just below the put-in that sets the tone for the upper section as the river pulls away from the highway. Passing under the railroad bridge, the river enters a striking red mudstone canyon, its walls glowing in late light and lending a sense of intimacy unique to this part of the Middle Fork. Rapids remain mostly Class II, though Staircase Rapids, a couple miles downstream, stands out as more technical and challenging. Between rapids, the scenery is superb—dense forested slopes, glimpses of high country above, and the occasional sight of wildlife. Keep an eye out for Walton Goat Lick, a mineral seep where mountain goats are often seen clambering on the cliffs. Boaters are not permitted to stop within 1/4 mile upstream or downstream of Goat Lick for the protection of the mountain goats.
At about 5 miles, paddlers reach the Essex access area on river left, just before the river passes beneath Highway 2. This serves as a convenient take-out for those seeking a shorter outing, but continuing downstream brings a change in character.
Below Essex, the river opens up, flowing through broad bends and cobble bars with mostly mellow Class I–II riffles. The canyon walls recede, giving way to colorful cliffs, gravel cut banks, and occasional glimpses of riverside cabins tucked among the trees. Evidence of the road and railroad appears intermittently, though the river retains a sense of wildness, especially where it drifts away from the road and Glacier National Park remain
...River Features
Bear Creek River Access and Trailhead, Put-In
Located on river right just off Highway 2, Bear Creek is the main put-in for this reach. The access point sits at the spot where the Middle Fork emerges from the Great Bear Wilderness, offering an easy launch and trailhead access for hikers heading into the backcountry.
Bear Creek Rapids
Immediately below the put-in, this bouldery Class II–III rapid sets the tone for the first few miles. At moderate flows it provides splashy, technical moves, while at higher water it becomes more pushy and challenging.
Staircase Rapids
A couple miles downstream, Staircase is one of the most notable drops on the run. It features a series of wave trains and maneuvering around boulders, making it more technical and demanding than the surrounding Class II water.
Goatlick Rapids
This short, lively rapid is named for its proximity to the famous Walton Goat Lick, where mountain goats can often be seen on the cliffs above. The rapid itself is straightforward Class II, but the scenery and wildlife viewing opportunities make it memorable.
Essex River Access
Situated on river left just before the Highway 2 bridge, Essex Access provides a convenient take-out or put-in option. It’s an excellent choice for those seeking a shorter run, with both the upstream Bear Creek section and the downstream Paola section offering enjoyable standalone trips, especially at lower flows. Essex is a a small railroad town and site of the Izaak Walton Inn.
Paola River Access
The take-out at Paola Creek lies on river left near where the creek joins the Middle Fork. The access is simple with basic amenities and set against a forested shoreline along Highway 2.
Trip Reports
Log in to add a reportWe paddled this section of the Middle Fork Flathead on day three of a five-day packrafting trip from Granite Creek to Blankenship Bridge. Although flows were low at 770 cfs, the river remained navigable. In the shallow gravel-bar sections we did hit bottom a few times, but with careful route-finding we were able to work our way through.
Float time for this reach was about four hours at this level. We stopped for lunch on a gravel bar at Ole Creek, just downstream of Essex.
The road and railroad parallel much of this section, but the forested shoreline often screens them from view and limits their intrusion on the river experience. From Bear Creek to Essex, the river flows through a deep and very scenic canyon, offering some of the most striking scenery on this stretch. Downstream of Essex, the valley opens, and the river passes a few homes before continuing along the road corridor on the way to Paola.
We did the stretch from Bear Creek to Paola Creek on July 12th in a 14 ft raft. The water was so low that we got caught up in rocks on several of the Rapids.