Colorado

15. Westwater to Rose Ranch (Westwater Canyon)

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River Description

Westwater Canyon of the Colorado River is a classic desert overnight float trip. You'll find great Class III+ whitewater (Class IV at higher water), good camping, and beautiful desert scenery. The rapids are concentrated in a 2-mile stretch, with ~8 miles of mostly flatwater beforehand and ~6 miles of mostly flatwater afterwards.

Logistics

There is a ranger station and campground at the put-in. The campground has seven small first-come/first-served sites (#1-#7; $20/site), four small sites that are bookable on recreation.gov (#8-#11; $28/site), and one large group site that's bookable on recreation.gov ($58). Sites 1-7 are in foliage along the river and are the most pleasant option; sites 8-11 and the group site are in the former overflow parking lot.

BLM shuttle map: https://www.blm.gov/sites/default/files/WestwaterMapJan2013%20508c.pdf

The put-in is accessible from I-70 exit 227 ('Westwater') or exit 221 ('Sulphur'). The route from the Sulphur exit requires driving through deep sand and can be problematic during and after periods of heavy rain. The route from the Westwater exit is easy -- follow the only paved road.

The take-out is accessible from I-70 exit 214 ('Danish Flat') or exit 204 ('Cisco'). The roads from both exits are paved. From either exit, drive to the semi-ghost-town of Cisco, then turn south on the unsigned Cisco Pumphouse Road. 3 miles from town, the road forks, with brown BLM signs for both the Cisco Boat Launch (upper takeout) and Fish Ford (lower takeout).

Shuttle is +/- two hours of driving. The Kokopelli Trail offers a pleasant mountain bike shuttle option; it's also possible to drive the Kokopelli Trail, but this is slower than driving I-70.

The entire run c

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River Features

Westwater Ranger Station (put-in)

Distance: 0 mi

Westwater Ranger Station has a boat ramp, campground, pit toilets, and dumpsters for trash and recycling.

An electric air compressor is available for inflating rafts, and a water spigot is available in the warmer months.

Miners camp

Distance: 4.17 mi
Other
Miners camp

A large camp. A network of 4WD roads and washes allows hiking into the desert beyond.

This is only about halfway through the upper section of flatwater, so camping here likely makes for a long second day.

Upper Cougar Bar camp

Distance: 5.97 mi
Other
Upper Cougar Bar camp

A large camp, with a small sandy beach.

A faint use trail leads downstream along the water to a gully that makes it possible to hike up to a bench, though you might need to be pretty motivated to do that.

Little Hole camp

Distance: 7.08 mi
Other
Little Hole camp

A large camp across the river from Little Hole.

Satellite imagery seems to show use trails from camp off into the desert beyond, and it's possible to ferry across the river to hike up Little Hole proper and visit some petroglyphs.

Upper Little Dolores camp

Distance: 7.39 mi
Other
Upper Little Dolores camp

A large, popular camp with access to the Litttle Dolores River.

From here, it's possible to hike up the Little Dolores, with a waterfall to visit in the spring. There's also reasonable eddy service to the Little D surf wave.

Little Dolores Rapids

Class: II+Distance: 7.43 mi (approx.)
Rapid
Little Dolores Rapids

A two-part rapid at the Little Dolores confluence.

There's a good play wave for kayaks in the second half.

Lower Little Dolores camp

Distance: 7.58 mi
Other
Lower Little Dolores camp

A second large, popular camp with access to the Little Dolores River.

At low and medium water, access to this camp requires carrying gear across a brushy cobble bar and up a hill.

Hades Bar camp

Distance: 7.8 mi
Other
Hades Bar camp

A small camp with a rocky beach.

Faint use trails seem to lead downstream along a chossy bench to a mesa, which is probably an unpleasant hike.

Marble Canyon Rapids

Class: IIIDistance: 8.7 mi
Rapid

The first significant rapid in Westwater Canyon, Marble Canyon Rapid is a long wave train with a bend to the left.

Big Hummer Rapids

Class: IIIDistance: 9.6 mi
Rapid

Funnel Falls

Class: IIIDistance: 9.85 mi
Rapid
Funnel Falls

Funnel Falls is formed by two boulders in the river. Left, center, and right runs are possible, depending on water level.

Surprise Rapids

Class: IIIDistance: 10.08 mi
Rapid

A two-part rapid, mostly two steep wave trains.

Skull Rapid

Class: IVDistance: 10.43 mi (approx.)
Rapid
Skull Rapid

Skull is not a rapid to be taken lightly as it has been the site of some epic mishaps. While the move is relatively straightforward at intermediate flows, the consequences of a mistake can be severe (especially for rafts).

You'll recognize the rapid by a jumble of boulders that extends down to water level on river left, a steep wall on river right, and a distinct horizon line. The rapid can be scouted from the rocks on river left, but the scout eddy is small and immediately above the rapid, making it tough to peel out and line up correctly.

The key is to avoid Skull Hole (a definite raft flipper) and the Room of Doom below it on river right.

Breaking the left side of the entrance V-wave and continuing left works well at most water levels. In an oar raft, this works best as a downstream ferry starting center-right. In a paddle raft, this will require strong, carefully-timed forward strokes. In a kayak, it's splashy but not very technical. At flows below 2500 cfs, large rafts may need to consider other (wider) lines.

The Room of Doom is formed where a rock point protrudes out into the main current on river right. Most of the flow continues downstream to the left but a significant portion heads right into a rock alcove with a powerful recirculating current that prevents boats from accessing the main current. While you can potentially break the eddy fence, at flows much above 6000 cfs this becomes difficult for rafts (potentially fun for kayaks if you're looking for the experience of swirling around in a toilet bowl). There have been cases where groups have actually had to dismantle their raft and portage up over the cliff. This looks like it would be absolute hell.

Sock It To Me

Class: IIIDistance: 10.91 mi
Rapid
Sock It To Me

The biggest wave train in Westwater Canyon, Sock It To Me has a great meaty wave-hole in it. It has a right-to-left angle, so hitting it straight requires starting from the right.

Line up, hit it hard, and hold on!

Last Chance Rapid

Class: IIIDistance: 11.07 mi
Rapid

Last Chance Rapid is formed by a boulder in the center of the river.

At low-medium flows (3000-4000 cfs), left and right runs are both possible, but the right side is steep and bumpy.

Big Hole

Distance: 12.04 mi
Other
Big Hole

A neat place to hike around and explore if you have time.

Big Hole is listed as a camp in some places, but has very little room.

Big Horn camp

Distance: 13.77 mi
Other
Big Horn camp

A large camp, with pretty rock walls on both sides of a beach.

Use trails allow hiking into the desert beyond.

Bald Eagle camp

Distance: 14.77 mi
Other
Bald Eagle camp

A large camp with a nice beach.

Cisco Boat Ramp (upper take out)

Distance: 17.55 mi
Take Out

Cisco has a 3-lane concrete boat ramp with a sandy area on one side for de-rigging.

There are also pit toilets, dumpsters for trash and recycling, and a parking lot for overnight (or longer term) parking.

Fish Ford Boat Ramp (lower takeout)

Distance: 23 mi
Take Out

An optional lower takeout, if you want to paddle or row an extra 5 miles of flatwater.


We had a nice time packrafting this run, and were happy with our choice to run it as a two day trip. If I had the time, I would always choose two days.

We were warned that scouting is difficult because the rocks are slippery Schist, this is true. If you are a kayaker who is used to catching small eddies and hopping out of your boat on uneven terrain, scouting was still straight forward at about 4,000 cfs if care is taken. The exception was Marble Canyon Rapid, which felt like the first notable canyon rapid (start right, then either stay right or move left for smaller waves at our flow). If you are in a raft, it may well be a better idea to study the rapids online before your trip or follow someone who knows the run down, especially for the line at Skull.

The ranger was a good resource for information, and good at his job.

Uploading an annotated picture of Skull Rapid at low water.

The picture is from this press release; author unknown: https://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/Article/view/article\_id/672/  . Annotations mine.

JW
Josh Whisenant

Dec 21, 2020


My buddy and I ran Westwater 12/6/20 and 12/18/20.

12/6: air temp was 11 degrees F at launch time. We were cold, but, despite iced over eddies and floating slush, the run was clean, and we laughed all the way home.

12/18: air temp was 31 degrees F at launch time. Right around Little Wild Horse Rapid, we saw our first river-wide ice bridge. We portaged on the ice without incident. We crossed half a dozen other ice bridges before we entered the canyon.

The rapids are always a blast, and we had no problems. But, as the water slowed around the bend below Last Chance Rapid, we found ourselves facing an ice field stretching on as far as we could see: at least 2-3 miles. We attempted to walk this ice field but it turned to soft slush about a half mile in. It wasn't humanly possible to paddle, wade, swim, walk, crawl, or generally move across the slush. We pulled our boats out river right (hoisted up the cliff for me, ouch), and hiked 15 miles back to the put-in.

I did not recognize that the Colorado would form ice in these quantities. Although we were fine, we (1) were healthy and well-prepared, and (2) were lucky. I have since seen posts rumoring that ice bridges can form INSIDE the main canyon, which sounds like an incredible, terrifying hazard.

My recommendation to anyone attempting a winter run: check the Cisco gauge. If you see water temps consistently a few degrees over 32, a run may be awesome: we saw this before our 12/6 run. If you see the water temp flatlining at 32, think about doing something else, unless you're willing to risk a helluva day.

DC
Daniel Cottam

Aug 3, 2019


Just ran at 10000. There is a hole on the right that is large in surprise falls. At this level in the raft it was impossible to break the v wave laterally in Skull. The wave before skull hole was huge. It reminded me of Lava on the Grand. For big raft go down the V headed left and hit the large wave on its left side then pull like hell to miss the magnetic wall. The wave will naturally pull you left. You can't break the 2 to 3 foot wall on the left side of the V with an Oar rig it is just too large. Smaller boats and catarafts can do it and not have a problem. Everything else is read and run and great fun with big hits. There were no trees or other obstacles to miss. Bring a motor if you can to go out the last 5 miles.

Nick Prete
Nick Prete

Jul 9, 2018


Great trip! there were some awesome hikes to an amphitheater and the BLM ranger Bob was rad. We did the trip in 2 days but you can lap it in a weekend. At around 4000 Scull was super easy, but some of the other rapids were bigger than I expected! Hitched a ride back to the put-in with some nice folks after finishing the last 5 miles of flat water (definitely save some beer for that part). Fun trip! Video of the bigger rapids here -> https://youtu.be/VmTN1BQARYc

TK
Timothy Kelley

Jun 8, 2017


Running left of the hole at Skull.

Nathan Fey
Nathan Fey

Oct 1, 2010


Littel Hole Camp on the Colorado River - Westwater Canyon

KP
Kent Perillo

Aug 7, 2007


About to enter skull

Craig Irwin
Craig Irwin

Nov 1, 2005


From one dory to another, Kinzie the super dog dances her way down another Westwater trip