Nisqually Whitewater Releases
WELCOME BACK BOATERS?
John Gangemi, American Whitewater Conservation Director
Boaters gathered excitedly on November 21, 1998 in anticipation of whitewater restoration in the Class V La Grande Canyon of the Nisqually River. This release, the culmination of a six year process to relicense Tacoma Public Utilities hydropower project on the Nisqually River, was advertised widely in the Pacific Northwest as the paddling event to attend. The releases were publicized for a reason: This is part of a three year evaluation to determine the feasibility of whitewater boating in the canyon and demand for the resource. The announcements paid off–a large crowd of committed boaters arrived for the Saturday release despite the constant drizzle and 38 degree temperatures.
Many of the boaters entering the La Grande Canyon were unaware of the significance their participation in the Nisqually releases had on future releases at hydropower projects across the country. The liability concerns associated with the difficult access into the La Grande Canyon made this a high profile event for utility companies and regulatory agencies across the country. Success or failure would send ripple effects for other rivers de-watered by hydropower projects. Most boaters were there for the opportunity to explore a new river and justifiably so. The La Grande Canyon offers a unique paddling experience.
Boaters gathered at the registration table to view the video footage shot during the 1994 test release. Most were excited to take on the restored rapids of the Nisqually River's La Grande Canyon. The organized nature of the releases coupled with the generally light-hearted nature of the paddling community caused many of us to take the Class V whitewater below lightly not to mention the Class V put-in. None of us were aware of the dramatic changes the 1996 flood had made to the rapids and portages. Few of the participants anticipated the long day about to unfold before them.
The put-in entailed belaying boats in two stages down a steep gully while paddlers used a handline. The greatest hazard on the descent was rockfall from others. Participants estimated that once on the ropes it took nearly 30 minutes to reach the river. This delay lead to congestion of kayakers at the top of the gully waiting to descend which lead to further congestion at portages in the canyon. In retrospect, the delays at the descent and portages pale in comparison to the six year relicense process which brought these releases to fruition.
By day's end, a record sixty-four boaters descended into the La Grande Canyon. Beth Geiger, author of Canoe and Kayak magazine's Whitewater Dispatches column described the day as "A first in kayaking history–the equivalent of sixty-four first descents!" Geiger's comment was in reference to the newly formed and yet unrun river channel dramatically altered by the 1996 flood.
At 4:30 PM darkness set in with only half of the sixty-four boaters accounted for at the take-out. My imagination began to conjure up my worst fears. Could this well publicized restoration of the Nisqually River end in tragedy? Earlier in the day, I'd had my share of doubts as I stood in the gully belaying boats and boaters to the river below. From my position in the gully I had a birds-eye view of the water spilling from the top of the 185 foot dam to the river below–a dramatic sight. The technical nature of the descent coupled with the crowd of boaters caused me more than once to question the logic of this release. Each time images of dry river beds across this country silenced my doubt. Those doubts took a quantum leap with news of the stranded boaters. By 9:00 PM my fears were nullified as the last boaters walked out of the Canyon. Relieved, we headed to the Rainier Overlander for dinner, beers, and a few first hand accounts soon to make their way into the analogs of legendary boating adventures.
And the stories kept pace with the Alaskan Amber on tap. I particularly liked the first hand account of the boater clinging to a rock in the middle of the river with darkness an arms length from his face. A boater portaging the drop heard his desperate shouts from mid-river. On the third attempt the throwbag made physical contact with the marooned boater. He described his swim to shore as "a total leap of faith diving into a rapid in complete darkness with no idea what lay downstream!" Obviously the rescue was successful.
Another paddler described the realization of succumbing to the darkness realizing he and his companions were about to bivouac in the La Grande Canyon facing approximately 14 hours of darkness with thirty degree temperatures. The eventual rescue by fellow boaters and chili dinner at the Overlander were more than appreciated.
Utilities typically try to deny whitewater releases below hydropower projects claiming that kayaking and rafting are dangerous activities that will place local search and rescue organizations at unnecessary risk. American Whitewater responds that boaters are self-reliant with the necessary rescue skills enabling self-rescue. On the Nisqually, the paddling community demonstrated this self-reliance in full color. Pitch Black!
Collectively, boaters in the Overlander agreed that delays at the descent and congestion along portage routes greatly increased the time commitment for the run. The run itself can be completed in a reasonable time frame. In fact, the last party to launch on Saturday put-on at 3:00 PM and members of that team arrived at the powerhouse by 4:30 PM.
Clearly, the descent time needs to be improved as well as congestion at portages. Both can be accomplished fairly easily by informing paddlers at the registration table how to rig for the descent and move quickly through portages. Alternative descents were used on Saturday which could speed up the process for future releases.
In the week or so since the release I've received numerous positive comments. Many want to return so they can relax and appreciate the unique rapids and setting of the La Grande Canyon. Most felt the strenuous descent was worth the paddling. All remarked that the rapids and portages were dramatically different from the video and these changes should be emphasized at the registration. One rapid in particular is definitely Class VI with a small eddy above to initiate the portage. Many felt the run should retain the Class V rating with an emphasis on the time factor given the descent and short days. When asked if they would return most replied enthusiastically yes, the paddling makes the descent worth it.
Additional Releases are scheduled for December 5 and 6, 1998. Due to structural changes in rapids and portages, releases will be kept at 800 cfs. On both Saturday and Sunday. Please arrive at 8:00 AM at Alder Lake Campground. Keep in mind these whitewater releases are under evaluation for the first three years. The results of these first three years will effect releases for the remaining Thirty-seven years in the project license.
Lastly, many individuals rose to the occasion on the first release day assisting fellow paddlers where needed. These individuals compassionately shared their skills at the risk of compromising their own ability to get out of the canyon before dark. Six boaters in particular hiked back into the canyon after dark to assist stranded paddlers. Kudos to all these individuals. Thank you to all participants for making this a safe initial release. Bring your knowledge to the following releases.
LESSONS LEARNED
Punctuality: An early start is imperative particularly given the unavoidable delays descending into the canyon. Registration is at 8:00 AM.
Ideally, summer releases would negate the need for a dawn start and greatly reduce safety concerns associated with bivouacs.
Logistics: Designate a team leader for each paddling group. This individual should be skilled with rigging boats for a belayed descent. Ideally, paddling teams would contain members capable of rigging and belaying boats. If you have questions about rigging boats for the lower ask for assistance from someone in the know. Additional volunteers dedicated to belaying boats into the canyon would greatly accelerate the descent. These volunteers should be equipped with hand held radios for ease of communication.
Equipment per paddler: mandatory –throwbags, two webbing slings, 2-3 carabiners preferrably locking. Assume this is an inaccessible canyon (because it is) therefore boaters must be prepared for self-rescue. Equipment necessary for self-rescue includes but is not limited to the following items; breakdown paddle, repair kit, first aid kit, bivvy kit, and extra food.
Additional equipment: We set up approximately 450 feet of climbing rope (three rope lengths) from the canyon rim to the water. Ideally, one rope would be dedicated to belaying boats with a second line functioning as a hand line. Two belay stations are necessary for lowering boats. Each belay station must be equipped with a heavy duty belay device. We destroyed one locking carabiner due to the dirt on the rope.
BACKGROUND ON THE NISQUALLY RELEASES
The La Grande Canyon is situated just downstream of the Nisqually Hydroelectric Project. The La Grande Dam diverts water from the 1.7 mile canyon to a powerhouse downstream de-watering the natural river channel except during extreme flood events. The Nisqually Project is a privately owned hydroelectric facility regulated by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC). FERC grants private utilities 30 to 50 year licenses. Roughly six years prior to license expiration the utility must initiate a relicense process to secure a new license. The relicense process, through the input of state and federal agencies and the public, is intended to evaluate project operations and establish specific conditions in the next license term for resource protection, mitigation and enhancement.
American Whitewater's Conservation Program has been actively involved across the country restoring whitewater rivers through the relicense process. American Whitewater along with the Rivers Council of Washington actively pursued annual whitewater releases as a condition of the new license for the Nisqually Hydroelectric Project. In June 1994, flow levels of 800 and 1000 cfs were tested as part of a whitewater feasibility study. Based, in part, on these tests the FERC required Tacoma Public Utilities to make four whitewater releases annually. Initially, the boating community requested these releases occur in the summer months when boating opportunities on adjacent rivers were less likely. The Washington Dept. of Fish and Wildlife, silent for much of the relicense process, objected to summer releases claiming releases would impact spawning fish. The parties agreed to schedule releases between November 15 and December 31 annually. Furthermore, the releases were set for an initial three year evaluation period. At the end of three year evaluation period, FERC would reassess the license condition requiring whitewater releases.
Tacoma Public Utilities has been extremely concerned with liability issues surrounding the whitewater releases. And justifiably so. The put-in requires a five hundred foot descent down a steep gully and is likely more difficult than the rapids. Once in the La Grande Canyon, the near vertical walls give you only one logical way out. To ease their liability concerns, Tacoma put together a video of the rapids enabling paddlers to make an informed decision about the difficulty of the whitewater prior to descending into the La Grande Canyon. Participants are required to view this video prior to descending into the La Grande Canyon. Upon completion of the run, paddlers are asked to fill out a survey to record their impressions of the paddling experience. The results of these surveys will be submitted to the FERC upon completion of the three year evaluation phase of the releases. American Whitewater will work closely with the Tacoma compiling the report.
For more information about hydropower relicensing, the Nisqually releases or to provide feedback on the La Grande Canyon releases contact American Whitewater's Conservation Office at 482 Electric Avenue, Bigfork, MT 59911. Phone: (406) 837-3155 – Fax: (406) 837-3156 Email: jgangemi@digisys.net