Colorado

Jen, Sam, Sasha and I did a loop starting at the back of fable valley, hiking to the confluence and walking back up bowdie. I wouldn't really recommend hiking up bowdie.

Large Pour over middle right. The current pushes towards it.

10/29-11/1, 2024. @ 6,000 cfs

Three packrafters hiked in from The Needles District, using a cross-country route that follows remnants of an old hand-built mining road. The access road to get to the cross-country route is high clearance itself. 4WD is required or you are liable to get a ticket from the NPS, AWD doesn't cut it (I got a written warning for using a Subaru). The route starts near the Needles Welcome Center, and reaches the Colorado about 5 miles upstream of the confluence with the Green River, near 'The Loops'.

Day 0: Set shuttle and camped at Hamburger Rock near the Needles District

Day 1: We hiked and paddled to Spanish Bottom.

Day 2: Side hike up to Doll's House, then paddled to XY camps.

Day 3: Paddled the whitewater, and camped at Clearwater Canyon

Day 4: Paddled 23 miles to the North Wash take out, kind rafters with a motor let us hang on and towed us for much of this last day. We ran shuttle and camped near Hamburger Rock again.

If I did it again, I'd add one more day to the trip. It can be done much faster, but I think one more day would have allowed for the ability to be on 'river-time'. While our pace was still nice and plenty enjoyable, it did require the use of a clock and the need to make miles was felt on a couple of the days. I thought flows were good for packrafting and kayakers looking for a class III/IV trip. There were a handful of fun rapids below Big Drop Three, and we had current all the way to the take out due to the lowering of Lake Powell, though the current slowed significantly after we passed the warm springs not far upstream of the Hite Bridge.

Gypsum Rapid felt IV-, and there was a small wavetrain between the two warm spring above the Hite Bridge that hadn't been there the week before. This rapid surprised the group motoring out, who had two rafts lashed together and ran the rapid that way.

Have a plan for water, the silt in the river means it's best to let it settle overnight before filtering if you don't bring enough for the whole trip (not such a problem for rafters).

Here is a video from our trip to get a feel for the rapids at 6,000 cfs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfCOT18OSqc

Canoe Trip Report

Overview:

4 canoeists with 2 tandem canoes paddled Cataract Canyon at ~6500 cfs from Potash to North Wash in 8 days from 10/29-11/5/22. We had 1 OT Tripper (outfitted with thigh straps and bow/stern floats) and 1 rented OT Discovery (with jerry rigged center float). None of us had paddled Cataract previous and relied on scouting and Rivermaps guide.

Whitewater: Of the roughly 33 rapids between miles 212 and 196 we land scouted ~30 of them, portaged 4 (Big drops & 16) and lined 2 (5 & 16). This 16 mile section took us 3 days with ~6 hours on the water each day, much of which was scouting. All of our gear was rigged to flip (attached to d-rings or thwarts). We also placed floats in bow/stern and center hatch. We never dumped or swamped and with running sneak and dry lines nothing felt harder than a III. This felt manageable in open boats for experienced wilderness whitewater canoeists.

Misc: We used 2 x 5 gal jugs with water wizard, gravity filter, and bleach. Used wag bags, human waste dry bag, and 5 gal bucket. Having portage friendly bags were useful (Watershed backpacks, barrel, no cooler, and small kitchen set up, ect.) Drysuits were necessary this time of year with open boats. Pin kit, 3 throw ropes, airbags, painter lines, and bailers were used. Plenty of driftwood and small 12 x 3” fire pan was nice for colder days.

Day by Day:

Day 1-3 (Potash —> Spanish Bottom) We spent the first 3 nights in Meander Canyon staying at Little Bridge, Upper Loop, and Middle Spanish Bottom. Campsite spacing and mileage felt appropriate and still allowed slower mornings and hikes. Hiked at rock art sites, petrified wood, and the Loop.

Day 4 (Spanish Bottom —> XY): Day 1 of whitewater was a good warm up to this canyon style whitewater. Most of these rapids we were able to find a sneak or dry line. We lined Rapid 5 RR. 5 Felt like the first bigger one without a dry line and the line was straightforward.

Day 5 (XY —> Kolb): Long day on the water in and out of boats scouting the 14 sets. The Mile longs are the first time not having great rescue ready washouts. Rapid 15 (Capsize) ran center to R catching RR eddy away from haystacks. Around rapid 16 we attempted to line RRL Boat got briefly pinned between rocks, but was quickly pushed off. No lost gear or larger issues. The 2nd boat ended up portaging over this feature. We portaged Big Drop 1 RR and BD2 RL. Both had lines that may have been paddled, but we were close to sunset and wanted to be conservative. Put in RL after BD2 was rough and both portages were over rocky terrain. Camped at Kolb quickly as sun was setting and rain beginning.

Day 6 (Kolb —> Gypsum): Started day with portage RR around BD3. Clean and easy walking. Rapids continue to need a quick scout and Waterhole (29) proved a bit more difficult without much of an option for a sneak. Both boats took on water but managed the main line L to center. 197.8 rapid (30) also took a good look at. Ended up RL line catching pushy eddy. 30 was the last real rapid. Camped below Gypsum on large (silt free) beach below all the whitewater. Rained all night.

Day 7-8 (Gypsum —> Millie Crag —> North Wash): Last 2 days cold with nights getting down to 25F. Hiked at Dark Canyon. Could have paddled all of this section in 1 day if needed it, but why leave the canyon? Other camping options seemed doable with small sandbars. Silt felt minimal compared with grand canyon. North wash was fine for us even with the steep TO.

Hopefully this helps future canoeists!

RRFW Riverwire – Cataract Canyon Takeout Changes

June 22, 2022

During the week of June 20, 2022, approximately 15 feet of the North Wash Takeout ramp was swept away by the Colorado River. This ramp is used by river runners at the end of their river trips through Cataract Canyon.

The North Wash ramp was already notorious for its 45 degree slope. Now the ramp has a seven-foot-high cliff at the water’s edge.

The Colorado River flows past the ramp location at a high rate of speed and additional bank erosion is expected in the immediate area both upstream and downstream of the ramp.

The North Wash access road, upper and lower parking areas, and lower loop road have not been effected by the riverside erosion.

River runners are still using the takeout, derigging their rafts just downstream of the actively eroding ramp area, and carrying their gear piece by piece 100 feet up the hillside immediately downstream of the now dysfunctional ramp.

Using 100 feet of steel cable, some groups are hauling their rafts up the hillside on rollers. The next takeout point downstream and across the reservoir is at Bullfrog and adds an additional 48 miles of travel. Some larger private tour company motorized snouts and 36 foot motor riggs are now motoring to the Bullfrog Ramp.

In their June 24, 2022 Weekly Low Water Update, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area mentioned the “primitive” North Wash Takeout, noting “River runners are advised the site is unstable and to exercise caution.”

We enjoyed this as a 6 day trip from the Potash Boat Ramp down to North Wash Boat Ramp. Flows through Cataract Canyon were approximately 5000 cfs. The first 3 days were on Meander Canyon of the Colorado with some motor assistance. We spent the third night at Lower Red Lake on river left and paddled Brown Betty (aka Rapid 1) the next morning to a beach on river right that provided a good staging area for the hike up to the Doll House. After lunch at the Doll House on day 4 we ran rapids 2-9 in the afternoon, set up camp at Upper X/Y Canyon R, and enjoyed fun kayak surfing in the evening at Rapid 10. On day 5 we enjoyed rapids 10 through Gypsum Canyon Rapid, that last exposed rapid at the reservoir elevation we experienced, and then continued paddling on down to Below Clearwater R Camp. Our lunch stop that day was at the top of Big Drop 3 on river right. Rafts ran the left line but kayakers found several options in Big Drop 3 with some running lines on the right and others running lines on the left. At 5000 cfs, it's the one drop I would consider class IV with the majority of the other rapids being class III. The reservoir was at approximately 3545 (155' below full pool of 3700') and the whitewater continued all the way down to Gypsum Canyon Rapid. On day 6 we motored the approximately 23 miles from Clearwater Canyon to North Wash Boat Ramp over a period of 4 hours arriving in the early afternoon. We had current flowing at the makeshift boat ramp just downstream of the Dirty Devil confluence on river right; it was a steep climb up to the parking area.

Ran this on sept 9 through the 12th 2021. River flow was around 3500 for the trip. This flow level is great for duckies and small boats. Great for beginners in almost any craft. This is a class III river at this flow with fun holes everywhere to punch with your big boats. Big drop three has lots of mid channel rocks so stay away from them. If your running a big boat like i do line your boat up just past midline stern side sideways with big mossy and then pivot into the tongue to the right of big mossy. Hold on for a few fun big holes. Kayaks make it look easy until the lateral at the end that rafts are not worried about. Used 4 hp mercury outboard and used only 2.5 gallons of gas keeping it just above idle in order to be able to talk. We average 4.5 mph when motoring. Did hikes to the petrified wood and the pullout there has an amazing rock diving board with deep water underneath. Best on the river. Hiking up over the goosneck is great especially since its faster than motoring and there is a great place at the end of the hike to cliff dive while waiting for the raft. We camped at upper Lathrop Ledges and it was great with the all the boats able to pull alongside rock and tie up to the ledges. the second day camp was at Upper Spanish Bottoms and this was nice and could easily fit a group of 50 and this was easy to access and get in and out of the boat with a nice sandy beach. The third day camp was was hard since we first tried New Face Rockfall and it sucked so we moved on the Fallen Slab. It looked mildly better so we split up our group since it was small even at low water and send the next downstream to camp 187.4 (now almost gone). Actually they never made it there. A mile before the camp was an unnamed spot with a small beach but a huge vegetation free area above the smallish beach that could accommodate a large group. Dont even think about Cove canyon as that was not present even at low water now. Rock Fall was there but small. Dark canyon camp does not exist but if you pull your boat up right onto the stream bed there is little in the way of clay there so this makes the hike up the canyon much better without all that clay.

Ran this on Sept 18 to 21. We started at 9am on Sept 18. We had 24 people and 8 boats (two small inflatable catarafts two 16 foot cats and 4 15 foot oar rigs). We had two 4 hp mercury motors. We used 3.5 gallons of gas to go 95 miles (one motor). We averaged 4 mph on the Colorado from the put in at Potash to the confluence. The Colorado was running around 2400. From the confluence with the flows up around 5000 we averaged 5.5 mph on the flat sections. We oared the rapids. The rapids at this level were only class III with the exception of Big Drop III which was a IV. The rest were just super fun. Of note since the guide books were written many years ago many more good rapids have formed as Lake Powell levels have stayed consistently low and the silt has washed out of the channel. All of the additional rapids were class III at this level with fun holes and wave trains. Lots of good camping everywhere. We camped just after Big Drop III on an unnamed beach and made it out by 3pm the next day. This kind of trip requires lots of long days motoring and would be better with 4 or 5 day trip as there is not a lot of time to do side hikes on a three day trip with low water. The most important factor in making time is the flow rate and not the size of the motor. It seems every time I do Cataract Canyon the winds are always strong right at the confluence. You would think with all the people doing Cataract Canyon they would have a decent take out but no it really sucks. Just be prepared to haul your gear up the hill or have a real 4 wheel drive to drive up the loose dirt ramp.

Looking upstream towards Cataract Canyon from the bridge across the Colorado River.

2/2/05 The current draw down conditions on lake powell have altered the lower section of the river. There are a few minor riffles below Imperial Rapid (last rapid.) The current in the lower section is fast and it's an easy days float to the take out.

Good camping can be found from Imperial to the beach river left near Gypsum Canyon. Below there, few exist. Camping spots are mre limited in Spanish bottom due to mud and the erosion of sandy beaches.

The take out is dirt road off of Rt 95 just south of the Hite Overlook. It is located just downstream of the confluence with the Dirty Devil, and easy to miss. The access to the river is very steep, loose rock and dirt, and prohibits getting a trailer to river level. All rafts must be carried up the initial 10 feet.

As always, high flows may alter this take out and further limit access.

Running through the playwave at rapid 10 in a 16 kodiak cat.
Hitting one of the bigger holes in capsize before pulling across to miss capsize rock. Rowing a 16 foot kodiak cat loaded to the gills.

Clay running Big Drop 3

Aerial photo of Colorado River looking west. The southern tip of Island in the Sky district in right background.

Aerial photo of Big Drops taken from Approx 3000 AGL. Satans Gut is the one in the middle.

For the full-sized version of this photo, click here.

This is an aerial photo of the Doll house/Surprise valley area looking North towards mineral bottom. If you hike out the South end of Surprise Valley, you end up back at the River at Rapid 5. From there you can hike back to Mineral Bottom.